Criticism of celebrity chef David Chang and his Momofuku brand erupted recently after the company cried foul at fellow Asian-led chili oil companies over use of the term “chili crunch.” Chang subsequently apologized and said he wouldn’t enforce the trademarked phrase.
All the same, the furor has renewed love for Lao Gan Ma spicy chili crisp, an iconic condiment that many of Asian descent, particularly Chinese Americans, associate with home.
Earlier this month, The Guardian reported that Chang’s food empire, which makes Momofuku Chili Crunch, had sent cease-and-desist letters to a number of chili oil companies, many of them small mom-and-pop operations. Momofuku demanded they stop using the term “chili crunch,” a trademark the food giant bought last year after it was sued by Denver-based company Chile Colonial for “trademark infringement.” Momofuku’s letters sought to prevent the other companies from using the phrase, though it doesn’t prevent the creation of chili sauces. The day after this article initially published, Change issued an apology.
“First and foremost, I want to apologize to everyone in the AAPI community who’s been hurt or feels like I’ve marginalized them or put a ceiling on them by our actions,” Chang said on an episode of his podcast Friday. “There’s a lot of chefs that I’m friends with. There’s a lot of people that are upset, customers, and that’s the last thing — literally the last thing — that I wanted to happen.”
Before his decision to no longer enforce the trademark, many Asian Americans said that if the “OG” chili oil — Lao Gan Ma — has found prolonged success without having to “bully” other businesses, Momofuku shouldn’t do so, either. And others said the nostalgia-packed staple with the recognizable Asian auntie logo deserves its flowers. In many Chinese American households, the condiment, an alluring mix of deep red fried chilies, oil, peanuts and MSG, is as ubiquitous as…
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